Tom Yum Soup with Tofu and Vermicelli

3 ounces rice or mung bean vermicelli

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 lime)

1 tablespoon sambal oelek

1 garlic clove, grated

1 stalk lemongrass, cut into 2-inch sections and crushed

1 (2-inch) piece ginger or galangal, peeled and finely sliced

2 makrut lime leaves, finely sliced

4 cups vegetable stock

4 to 6 shiitake mushrooms (4 ounces), stemmed and cut into ¼-inch slices

6 cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

1 16-ounce package silken tofu, broken into 5 or 6 large chunks

2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)

¼ cup evaporated milk (optional)

2 scallions, finely sliced

Handful of cilantro leaves

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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