True Texas Chili

2 ounces dried, whole New Mexico (California), guajillo, or pasilla chiles, or a combination (6 to 8 chiles)

1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin seed

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt

5 tablespoons lard, vegetable oil, or rendered beef suet

2 ½ pounds boneless beef chuck, well trimmed and cut into ¾-inch cubes (to yield 2 pounds after trimming)

⅓ cup finely chopped onion

3 large cloves garlic, minced

2 cups beef stock , or canned low-sodium beef broth, plus more as needed

2 ¼ cups water, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons masa harina (corn tortilla flour)

1 tablespoon firmly packed dark brown sugar, plus more as needed

1 ½ tablespoons distilled white vinegar, plus more as needed

Sour cream

Lime wedges

Directions at epicurious.com

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