Brioche Sandwich Loaves

SERVES Makes 2 loaves

TIME 1½ hours, plus 2 hours rising and 1¼ hours cooling

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We wanted glossy, amber-colored brioche with its signature paper-thin crust, buttery flavor, and impossibly soft, feathery interior. To build structure in this butter-laden dough (which can be difficult since fat shortens the sturdy gluten strands), we used bread flour, which contains more protein than all-purpose flour does and thus develops gluten more readily. We mixed together the flour, yeast, water, and eggs and let the dough rest before adding the sugar, salt, and butter; since salt and sugar slow hydration, withholding them helped the flour fully hydrate, a necessary step for maximum gluten formation. We then added softened butter 1 tablespoon at a time so the gluten had time to develop between additions. Another 10 minutes of kneading finished building the dough's structure. Dividing the risen dough in half and shaping it to fit into two loaf pans created showstopping brioche loaves. We wanted glossy, amber-colored brioche with its signature paper-thin crust, buttery flavor, and impossibly soft, feathery interior. To build structure in this butter-laden dough (which can be difficult since fat shortens the sturdy gluten strands), we used bread flour, which contains more protein than all-purpose flour does and thus develops gluten more readily. We mixed together the flour, yeast, water, and eggs and let the dough rest before adding the sugar, salt, and butter; since salt and sugar slow hydration, withholding them helped the flour fully hydrate, a necessary step for maximum gluten formation. We then added softened butter 1 tablespoon at a time so the gluten had time to develop between additions. Another 10 minutes of kneading finished building the dough's structure. Dividing the risen dough in half and shaping it to fit into two loaf pans created showstopping brioche loaves.

INGREDIENTS

3 ⅔ cups (20⅛ ounces) bread flour

1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

1 ¼ cups (10 ounces) water, room temperature

2 large eggs, plus 1 large egg, lightly beaten

¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar

2 ½ teaspoons table salt

13 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 13 pieces and softened

note: BEFORE YOU BEGIN

All-purpose flour can be substituted for the bread flour, but the loaves won't be as tall; use the same amount of all-purpose flour by weight, not by volume. When kneading the dough on medium speed, the mixer may wobble on the counter. Watch it closely and place a dish towel or shelf liner underneath it to keep it in place. The test kitchen's preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness 5 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe. All-purpose flour can be substituted for the bread flour, but the loaves won't be as tall; use the same amount of all-purpose flour by weight, not by volume. When kneading the dough on medium speed, the mixer may wobble on the counter. Watch it closely and place a dish towel or shelf liner underneath it to keep it in place. The test kitchen's preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness 5 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe.

Directions at cookscountry.com

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