Country-Fried Steak

SERVES Serves 4

TIME 1¾ hours, plus 1 hour marinating

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We wanted to stick to the frugal roots of this classic cowboy dish while making sure to develop a foolproof recipe for tender steaks with a crunchy coating. To that end, we started with cube steaks, the traditional inexpensive, thin cut of beef, but since they're notoriously chewy even after being mechanically tenderized, we let the steaks sit briefly in a solution of baking soda, salt, and water to tenderize them fully. Next, instead of the typical simple dredge in seasoned flour before frying, we sought a more substantial coating that better adhered to the meat. We patted the steaks dry to rid them of excess moisture and turned to the standard breading procedure to do the trick: a dredge in seasoned flour, a dip into beaten egg, and then a second dredge. Crushed saltines in the second dredge created a more craggy, substantial coating. Frying the steaks in just 1½ cups of oil was enough to create a robust fried exterior without the hassle (and extra oil) required for deep frying. Adding a few tablespoons of the frying oil (laced with the dredging spices) back to the skillet provided a savory base for a quick, rich milk gravy. We wanted to stick to the frugal roots of this classic cowboy dish while making sure to develop a foolproof recipe for tender steaks with a crunchy coating. To that end, we started with cube steaks, the traditional inexpensive, thin cut of beef, but since they're notoriously chewy even after being mechanically tenderized, we let the steaks sit briefly in a solution of baking soda, salt, and water to tenderize them fully. Next, instead of the typical simple dredge in seasoned flour before frying, we sought a more substantial coating that better adhered to the meat. We patted the steaks dry to rid them of excess moisture and turned to the standard breading procedure to do the trick: a dredge in seasoned flour, a dip into beaten egg, and then a second dredge. Crushed saltines in the second dredge created a more craggy, substantial coating. Frying the steaks in just 1½ cups of oil was enough to create a robust fried exterior without the hassle (and extra oil) required for deep frying. Adding a few tablespoons of the frying oil (laced with the dredging spices) back to the skillet provided a savory base for a quick, rich milk gravy.

INGREDIENTS

subheading: Steak:

4 (4- to 6-ounce) cube steaks, trimmed

¼ cup water

1 ½ teaspoons table salt, divided

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup all-purpose flour, divided

¾ cup buttermilk

1 large egg

35 square saltines

½ cup cornstarch

2 teaspoons pepper

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 ½ cups peanut or vegetable oil for frying

subheading: Gravy:

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 ½ cups whole milk

¼ teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

note: BEFORE YOU BEGIN

There are about 35 crackers in one sleeve of saltines. Use more or less cayenne to suit your taste.

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR THE STEAK: Using meat pounder, pound each steak to even ¼-inch thickness between 2 sheets of plastic wrap. Whisk water, 1 teaspoon salt, and baking soda in medium bowl until baking soda and salt are dissolved. Add steaks and toss until coated and no liquid pools at bottom of bowl. Let sit for 15 minutes.

Directions at cookscountry.com

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