Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles)

subheading: FOR THE NOODLES:

8 ounces sen yai or other dried wide rice noodles

2 to 4 green and red bird’s-eye or other very hot chiles, such as serrano

7 garlic cloves

8 ounces ground pork or chicken, fresh seafood such as shrimp, mussels or calamari, or cubed extra-firm tofu

6 gai lan (Chinese broccoli), choy sum, bok choy or broccolini, thick stems trimmed off (optional)

1 heaping cup lightly packed holy basil, Thai basil or Italian basil leaves

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

subheading: FOR THE SAUCE:

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 ½ teaspoons distilled white vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons Thai black soy sauce or another thick, sweet soy sauce

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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