Shrimp Pad Thai

subheading: FOR THE NOODLES:

8 ounces sen lek (dried ⅛-inch-wide flat rice noodles) or other pad Thai noodles

¼ cup minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced shallot

¼ cup minced Thai sweet preserved radish (optional; see Tip)

10 to 12 peeled and deveined medium shrimp

8 ounces superfirm (pressed) tofu or drained extra-firm tofu, cut into bite-size cubes or rectangles (1 cup)

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 cups bean sprouts

1 small bunch garlic chives or scallion greens, cut into 1-inch lengths (½ cup)

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for cooking eggs

Chopped peanuts, chile powder and lime wedges, for serving

subheading: FOR THE SAUCE:

⅓ cup fish sauce

⅓ cup tamarind liquid or concentrate

⅓ cup coconut or other palm sugar or dark brown sugar

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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