Real-Deal Khao Soi Gai (Northern Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Soup with Chicken)

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Darwin

1 whole dried Thai bird chili (or 1 whole chile de arbol), more or less to taste

2 whole small shallots, peeled and split into quarters

4 whole cloves garlic

1 stalk lemongrass, bottom 4 inches only, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon makrut lime zest, or 2 whole makrut lime leaves (see note)

1 (1-inch) knob fresh turmeric, roughly chopped

2 thin slices ginger

1 small bunch cilantro stalks, cut from the very base of the stalks, leaves and thin stems reserved for another use

1 teaspoon whole coriander seed

6 pods Thai black cardamom or 1 pod green cardamom, inner seeds only

Kosher salt

1 ½ tablespoons Thai shrimp paste

1 cup vegetable or canola oil

1 pound fresh Chinese-style egg noodles, divided

2 (15-ounce) cans coconut milk, or 2 cups fresh coconut milk (do not shake)

1 cup homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock

2 tablespoons palm sugar (see note)

4 chicken legs, split into drumsticks and thighs

Fish sauce to taste

Sliced shallots, lime wedges, and pickled Chinese mustard root (see note) for serving

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